If you're into neon signs and lots of flash on the walls, then there are plenty of tattoo shops to c"hoose from on the streets of Florida. But when Phil Holt opened RedLetter1 in 2003, he wanted something different for both his customers and himself. "When I first opened, I had just gotten back from Mick's shop in Zurich, Switzerland," Holt explains from Skull & Sword in San Francisco, where he is finishing up a stint. "He didn't have street shop flash all over the walls and not everything was tattoo-oriented. He had a library and a place to chill out, too, so it was really comfortable. That's how I wanted to set up." Holt found his comfortable space on the second floor of an old factory in Tampa, FL, ... Feature Story

When Th’ink Tank Tattoo Studio and Art Gallery opened in Denver it gave the ink-loving folks in the Mile-High City a quality place for tattoos and a stellar gallery space. It almost didn’t last. “When we first started, we opened up in a neighborhood that was just too pricey,” says artist Jef Kopp. “Luckily, we figured that out pretty quickly and we moved over to our current space on Broadway. We’ve been here for four and a half years now and it’s exactly the right location for us. So much so that we’re now undergoing a complete remodel.” The changes weren’t strictly cosmetic, either. In 2005, Kopp sold the business to longtime associate and tattoo artist of 17 years Scottie DeVille, who’s now at the reigns. “It felt right and ... Feature Story

Don’t even think about asking Keone Nunes to tattoo a dagger or dolphin on you. “All I do is Hawaiian tattoos, designs inked for various cultural reasons,” says Nunes. These designs (bold, geometric shapes) have names, meanings, prayers and can reflect the genealogy of the individual. Nunes, who has been tattooing since 1990, works nontraditionally—he has no shop (he works out of a Hawaiian healing center) and he doesn’t use machines (he taps, which he assures is faster and less painful). “In the process of getting tattooed in the ’70s, my tattooist and inspiration, Kandi Everett, recognized the fact that I knew a lot about Hawaiian tattoos from a cultural view,” Nunes explains. “She encouraged me to bring that back out to the community.” Since then, he’s been inking people ... Feature Story

You might get a little claustrophobic in the small space of South Pacific, but it’s worth it. Owner Thomas “Wondo” Wondoloski, a Hawaii resident for 15 years, has been tattooing for 22 years and knows tattoos well. After all, his inspiration was the late tattoo legend Asa Lee Crow III. “He was like a carnival strolling down the road. I sure do miss him,” says Wondoloski. The shop’s tattoo artists are versed in everything from tribal to traditional, color, or black, and they’re confident that their work speaks for itself. Most of the designs are painted in-house, and you can get an idea of their work from the fl ash that covers every corner of the walls. Wondoloski has been an inspirational asset to the industry, whether he believes it ... Feature Story

“We worked hard to get to where we’re at,” says tattooist Kevin Mokuahi. “It’s the quality of our work that has given us our reputation.” And it’s true. Located off a major road between Waikiki and North Shore, the TNT shop is not in the most tourist-driven area, but its steady client base (primarily military and surfers) proves it’s worth the drive. Everyone from Boo-Yaa T.R.I.B.E. to ’N Sync and Sugar Ray’s Mark McGrath have been inked here. Mokuahi has been tattooing for more than 12 years and takes the work seriously, from apprenticeship to culture. “The fi rst thing we do with apprentices is give them books on tattoo artists. How do you want to put a tattoo on someone when you don’t even know where the craft came ... Feature Story

“No one knew who I was when I moved to Hawaii,” says Mike Ledger. “I really had to work my way up from nothing again.” Originally from Farmingdale, New York, Ledger went from having a three-year waiting list to starting from scratch. “I had to prove myself and get accepted by the locals in Hawaii,” he remembers. Now he’s back to a waiting list. Inspired by his grandfather who had a full body suit, Ledger began his apprenticeship at 16 and has been inking for almost 20 years. His specialty (thanks to Granddaddy) is large-scale body suits, mostly Asian-inspired, and the occasional portrait work and photo-realism. Mike Ledger Tattoo resembles an upscale gallery setting, as Ledger’s paintings decorate the walls, creating an ambience that’s less tattoo parlor and more modern ... Feature Story

When owner Robert Hackney opened A Tiki Tattoo, it effortlessly blended right in with colorful Waikiki. Unlike many of the tattoo parlors on the island, A Tiki embraces island lifestyle with its laid-back, open atmosphere and friendly staff. The shop feels like a tropical oasis complete with bamboo light decor and paneling. With more than 30 years experience, Hackney plans on making A Tiki Tattoo a household name. Each of the five full-time tattooists (three born and raised in Hawaii) brings in his own clientele, whether locals, tourists, or celebs such as Reverend Horton Heat, Mike Ness of Social Distortion, and members of Alice in Chains. With diverse backgrounds, their focus is versatile, ranging from realism to old school Polynesian. “It’s a good place for people visiting Hawaii—they can bring ... Feature Story

Perfection Tattoo is definitely a custom shop. Located in Central Austin, and surrounded by an eclectic residential area, Perfection was opened in 1978 by Bob Moreau. Moreau passed the shop to his student Dave Lum, who then passed it to Chris Treviño, the current owner, in 1992. Treviño, known worldwide as Horimana, has garnered a well-deserved reputation for his amazing, full-body Japanese work. “For the most part, our clientele is looking for larger scale tattoos, serious tattoos,” says artist Carlos Truan. “Every week there are people flying in from all over the world to get tattooed by Treviño. It keeps things serious and interesting.” Staffed with four tattooers, the shop also attracts guest artists, both from the states and abroad. The shop has an impressive tattoo art collection hanging on ... Feature Story

Smack in the middle of the Red River District, glows the cool neon of True Blue Tattoo. Founded by the late Vanessa Alvarez, this two-fl oor ex-carriage house (the first floor is for tattooing; the second fl oor, known as “Glory Hole,” is strictly for piercings) is home to nine full-time tattoo artists and three piercers. The shop can get slammed on the weekends due to the foot traffic out on busy Sixth Street. “We get our fair share of walk-ins who want tattoos from the flash on the walls,” says artist Jose Palacios. “But a lot the flash here is drawn by our artists, and most of our customers expect us to draw custom pieces for them.” Due to its location, True Blue is open until 2 a.m. on ... Feature Story

Producing high-quality, specialized work is paramount to Jason Brooks, Tony Hundahl, and Hector Fong—the three diverse artists who make up Rock of Ages in South Austin. Opened in October of 2005, Rock of Ages is a pure custom shop specializing in traditional American and Japanese tattooing. Hailing from an artistic family (his father was a professional illustrator), Brooks began making his bones some 15 years ago, working the street shops of South Florida. Now he is sought out for his specialty, traditional Japanese designs and imagery. Entering its third year of existence, the shop’s drive for creative excellence is emphatically summed up by Hundahl: “We’re constantly pushing ourselves and each other to do the best tattoos we possibly can.” DRINK: Horseshoe Lounge, 2034 S. Lamar Blvd., 512-442-9111. With its colorfully ... Feature Story

      At 26th and Guadalupe Streets, right across from the University of Texas campus, Diablo Rojo has “probably one of the best locations in town, ” according to owner Doug Curtis. Though it’s within earshot of the school, the shop is for the most part custom, according to Curtis. But the weekends do have a tendency toward a “street shop atmosphere.” The shop itself is spacious and well-designed, featuring two fl oors with large, neon red crosses at the doorway entrance and an elaborate mosaic tiled fl oor. A vast selection of body jewelry (tribal, stretch, and fi tted) is sold right alongside the veteran crew of tattooers plying their trade. “We have a range of artists that vary in style from Japanese and portraits to traditional,” Curtis ... Feature Story

“First and foremost, we’re a neighborhood shop,” declares Cosmo, the owner of 13-year-old Kadillac Tattoo. “This ain’t no hipster hangout.” Located in the Manayunk section of Philadelphia, this clean, bright shop prides itself on being a mainstay of a neighborhood that has struggled to stay true to its blue-collar history, despite the chic shops and restaurants that have popped up. They’re obviously succeeding: “We’re now tattooing some of the kids of our original customers,” says Drew Rash, one of Kadillac’s artists. Anything goes at Kadillac, which is also home to artist Matt Runks and fine-line expert Erica Barfield. “We’re in the business of getting along,” says punk legend Cosmo, who was a big part of the local music scene in the early ’80s and was featured in the documentary American ... Feature Story

Walk around the streets of Philadelphia and you’ll quickly notice it’s a city that takes tattooing seri­ously. “In the summer you’ll see ink all over everyone,” says Chinatown Tattoo co-owner Braden Kendall. “It crosses all genres; I’ve sleeved out two doctors recently.” The shop sees a lot of action from walk-in clients—“We do names all day,” Kendall says—and has earned a reputation as a good place for first-timers looking for a positive experience. Here the legacy of traditional tattooing is still going strong, as Chinatown Tattoo has the distinction of being the oldest consecutively operational shop in Philadelphia. And yes, it used to be a Philadelphia Eddie’s. “The history of this shop and the city in general is amazing,” muses Dave Steele, who also goes by the name Snakeface. “It’s ... Feature Story

Yes, you read it correctly; this shop is also called Philadelphia Eddie’s. “This was the first shop that Eddie Funk opened on Fourth Street,” explains Troy Timpel, who has owned the business along with Furry since 2002. “When he retired he offered ownership of the different locations to the guys who helped run them. We’re keeping his legacy going strong.” Today, Philadelphia Eddie’s Tattoo Haven is known as a stellar custom shop and has gotten plenty of recognition thanks to the work of Japanese-style artist Don Juan and the rest of the close-knit staff. The group produces everything from large-scale pieces to portraits to the old-school, traditional style that put Philadelphia on the map as a serious tattoo town. In addition to running the shop, Timpel also owns Tattooed Kingpin ... Feature Story

Philly Ink may be off the beaten path, but it’s well worth the trip into the Port Richmond section of the city. The shop, another former Philadelphia Eddie’s, is now run by Danny Emery, who grew up just six blocks away. “I used to get chased out as a kid because I was always coming around wanting to get tattooed,” he laughs. “It’s pretty ironic that I now own the place.” Emery found his legs as an artist at this street shop (he’s been here for 13 years) and fondly recalls the on-the-job education he got from Tom Napp and Charlie Eastwood. “Those guys really showed me the ropes and taught me how to work for Eddie.” The name of the business may have changed, but you can still expect ... Feature Story

For those who appreciate a walk down memory lane, there’s only one shop in town to visit: Philadelphia Eddie’s. Opened 13 years ago by (you guessed it) “Philadelphia Eddie” Funk, it was passed down five years ago to two of his longtime colleagues, Jerry Donohoe and Tom Napp. These guys are the real deal for both authentic traditional work and the history of Philadelphia tattooing. “We were introduced to the profession when it hadn’t changed much from the turn of the century. All the secrecy and mystery still existed. It was incredibly hard to become a part of that world, since you couldn’t just open some catalog and order equipment, or expect that someone would take you on as an apprentice,” says Donohoe. “But now it’s a totally different world, ... Feature Story

Sure, Olde City Tattoo has a street-shop vibe, but they’re really the city’s go-to guys for quality custom pieces. The shop has a staff of six artists, so you can be sure that someone will give you what you’re look­ing for, whether it’s a portrait or black-and-gray piece from owner Jason Goldberg or Japanese stylings courtesy of Martin LaCasse. “This is a talented group of guys,” Goldberg says proudly. “Everyone here has been tattooing for well over 10 years so we know what we’re doing.” Indeed, the staff is a mix of formally trained artists and self-taught purists, but they’ve all come together with the shared goal of producing work they can be proud of. Make sure to take a close look at the flash that lines the walls of ... Feature Story

“I would rather be here, than anywhere else,” says Chicago Tattoo Company’s shop manager and artist Nick Colella. “I don’t care what kind of shit goes down, as long as I am in a tattoo shop.” He adds, with a chuckle, “I’m lucky that I have a wife that understands that.” Originally opened in the ’60s by tattoo veteran Cliff Raven, Chicago Tattoo Company is not only the city’s oldest shop, but in fact, once was its only shop. In the ’70s, when officials upped the age limit for receiving a tattoo to 21 (it’s only recently returned to 18), most of the shops in the city went under. But this place managed to keep its doors open. As a result, boasts Colella, “Every other shop in the city has ... Feature Story

Opening up a shop in Chicago’s Little Italy wasn’t easy for Keith Underwood. In fact, the Taylor Street owner has become almost as famous for the battle he faced trying to get his business open as he has for his art. “You can’t just rent and open here,” says Underwood of his difficulties. Strict laws about property ownership, coupled with ambiguous, antiquated licensing and regulations edicts in the state of Illinois, meant that attempting to open a business centered around tattooing was not only a hassle, but a big gamble as well. Then, there was the trouble with the neighbors. “It was a real us-versus-them-situation,” says Underwood about the college-prep and Catholic schools that showed up at his community hearing to voice protests and air concerns that the shop would ... Feature Story

When Tomato Tattoo owner Robert Hixon set out to name his shop, he jokingly suggested an unusual moniker to his girlfriend. “In our history, tomato is symbolic of love,” he says. “So I threw it out there and the more we thought about it, the more it seemed to make sense.” The name does seem perfect for the little shop, which emphasizes passion for the craft over big personalities. “We all love what we do. We all do what we do well, and we aren’t about cutting each other’s throats,” says Hixon about himself and the other artists at the shop. And, he adds, “Nobody here has a rock-star mentality.” The shop is a “local’s place,” where the clientele is as varied as the work they do. And an emphasis ... Feature Story

“Please note that I am a one-man operation so I am not always able to get back to people as quickly as I would like.” This is the apologetic ending to the voice mail greeting of Cherry Bomb’s sole artist and operator, Patrick Cornolo, who has had to deal with a lot of big changes this year. Located on the second floor of a building that also houses art studios and galleries, this “one-man operation” was founded in 1999 by Kim Saigh, of L.A. Ink fame. The two shared the space until May of this year, when Saigh handed the reins over to Cornolo so she could focus on her work in Los Angeles. While Cornolo explains that he and Saigh knew each other “from around” (their most direct link ... Feature Story

Spirituality rules at this famed establishment, whose client list includes Montel Williams and Dennis Rodman. “Western tattooing, unfortunately, is about money,” says owner Roni Zulu. “But the art of tattooing is a very ancient, very sacred art form.” Concerned with learning and preserving the primordial cultural aspects of the craft, Zulu frequently travels to places like the Tahitian islands and Samoa, to absorb and import ideas back to his shop. “Our goal is not to put something on you, we want to pull something out of you,” insists Zulu. This means clients and artists will sometimes collaborate on a particular piece for up to six months before both feel an image is ready to be etched. It’s a very intimate relationship, but one that culminates in a custom piece that ... Feature Story

“People come by the store all the time just to play pool,” laughs Shamrock manager Cody McCarthy. “That’s why it’s called the ‘Social Club.’” While the shop has famously tattooed celebrities like Angelina Jolie and Bruce Willis, its real claim is being the place to go for black and gray work. “When you talk about black and gray, there are four names that are mentioned the most,” McCarthy explains. “And two of them work here.” While the shop has famously tattooed celebrities like Angelina Jolie and Bruce Willis, it also caters to bikers and ‘second-generation’ clients. “It’s funny,” he muses. “A lot of the time kids will come to Mark because their Dad got a piece from him years ago.” With three floors, a pool table, and couches, this big, ... Feature Story

You won’t find any heavy metal music blaring or stereotypical “tough guys” (read: assholes) with needles at this unpretentious shop. Specializing in high-quality, custom work and cover-ups, owner M. Alder stresses that it’s not about attitude at the Purple Panther. “The goal is to create an environment where people feel comfortable coming in with their own ideas,” says Alder. What you’ll get when you step through the doors of this shop are classically trained artists who work closely with their clients to create something unique. “I like my artists to have a previous background in the arts,” Alder says. Artist Graham Chaffee, for instance, was formerly a freelance illustrator and graphic novelist before picking up a tattoo gun. In fact, the Purple Panther’s strong commitment to the fine arts is ... Feature Story

“Everybody thinks I came into the tattoo world with a red carpet at my feet,” says venerated artist Mister Cartoon. It’s easy to understand why this misconception exists: Cartoon was already well known in as a muralist and illustrator before becoming interested in tattooing. “Being a professional artist was a handicap,” he says. “I would have had an easier time if I had been selling disk brakes for a living.” Cartoon worked out of his mom’s kitchen (“I don’t advocate it,” he warns) for years before beginning an apprenticeship with Baby Ray at Spotlight. Now he’s working out of an inconspicuous three-floor loft in downtown L.A., where he deals exclusively with black-and-gray work. Cartoon’s pieces can be seen on celebrities like Eminem and, most recently, Meena Suvari. And, while it’s ... Feature Story

The difference between Spotlight and a lot of the other shops out there is evident as soon as you walk in. “Most shops in LA, or the world even, just have Xeroxed shit on the walls,” gripes artist Charlie Roberts. But at Spotlight, Roberts points out, “We’ve got original flash.” Much of that flash, it’s important to note, was hand-painted in the ’70s by Charlie’s own father, Spotlight proprietor (and living tattoo legend) Bob Roberts. Ultimately, however, it’s the quality of the artists that separates Spotlight from the pack. “I’d put my team against anybody’s,” boasts Roberts. “There are maybe only one or two other teams in the world that even come close.” Originally opened in Manhattan before moving to Los Angeles in the early ’80s, Spotlight shines as one ... Feature Story

Seventh Son might be the best amalgamation of all San Francisco’s tattoo scene has to offer. Co-owned by Jason Kundell (former coowner of Artwork Rebels), Erik Rieth (formerly of Everlasting Tattoo), and Luke Stewart (who was a regular guest artist at Artwork Rebel), the studio may be on the new side, but its artists have certainly been around long enough to garner respect. It shows in their clientele. “We cater more to the serious collector who wants bigger, custom pieces,” says Rieth. Translation? The accumulative hours spent working on a piece means the artists at Seventh Son often end up developing personal relationships with their clients. “For us, clients aren’t just customers,” says Rieth. “Since we see the same person several times, we end up becoming friends. Half the time ... Feature Story

Co-owned and operated by venerable artists Ed Hardy and Fip Buchanan, Tattoo City, in the heart of the historic North Beach area, is at the apex of the tattoo world. Hardy himself hand picks each of the store’s artists to carry on the tradition he began more than 40 years ago. “Everyone has an individual style, but they all work under Ed’s eye,” says Tattoo City manager Aleph Kali. “It’s quite an honor to work here.” Small and covered from wall to wall with antique flash from Sailor Jerry, Hardy, and other legendary artists, Tattoo City is also part “ink museum.” “A lot of the flash is older than most of the customers that come in here,” says Kali. But don’t head there expecting to pick up any Hardy gear. ... Feature Story

Grime talks fast, but his work takes time; his website, grimemonster.com, informs visitors that the wait to get inked is currently a whopping three years. Opening the store just over a year ago (after, Grime says, he grew tired of the “speed freaks” and “shitty landlord” he was dealing with at the now-defunct Artwork Rebels), Grime and his staff of self-proclaimed “tattoo warriors” have carved out a niche for themselves in the Bay Area. And that’s not just because they have a reputation for producing super-high-quality work or because the owner is something of a tattoo rock star; the shop works because, as Grime says, “We’re really nice.” With no signage to advertise that they even exist, Primal Urge is the studio for the erudite collector looking for a warm, ... Feature Story

“We are more or less the anti-shop shop,” says Everlasting Tattoo’s Henry Lewis about this staple on the San Francisco tattoo scene. “We’re more like a fine arts tattoo gallery.” Why? To begin, there is no flash of any kind in the store. Instead the walls are decorated with paintings by the artists, many of who have had shows at galleries in and around San Francisco. Owner Mike Davis, whose paintings and illustrations were recently featured in a show at San Francisco’s White Walls gallery, also had a hand in building everything in the store. Although they travel to conventions around the world (the studio recently attended a convention in Rome), they don’t enter contests. “We don’t believe in that sort of thing,” says Lewis. “The work speaks for itself.” ... Feature Story

Run by Bill Salmon with Juni, his wife of 20 years, Diamond Club is anything but your average mom-and-pop shop. Both Salmons have spent their whole lives tattooing, mostly as a team. “Working with my wife everyday is fun stuff,” says Bill. “It’s a good time everyday.” Before opening its doors to the public just a few years ago, Diamond Club operated for 13 years solely as a private, appointment-only club that offered high-quality, custom pieces in a comfortable environment. While they do a little bit of everything, the shop, according to Bill, is mostly “all about color.” What they don’t specialize in is ego. Notes Bill, “We are just one of many out there in what is a great tattoo city.” Eat: Rex Café, 2323 Polk St., San Francisco, ... Feature Story

When you ask Blackheart owner Scott Sylvia what sets his studio apart from the sea of shops in the Bay Area, you are likely to hear words like “established” and “tradition” somewhere in his response. And, “We don’t suck,” he says seriously. “There are only a handful of good shops left in the area,” Sylvia says with a combination of ruefulness and pride, “and we’re one of them.” Having logged more than 14 years working in and around San Francisco, Sylvia considers himself and the members of his team to be part of an elite group of artists. “That level of experience counts for something,” Sylvia says. Opened in 2004 by Sylvia, with friends Jeff Rassier and Tom Lehi, both of whom he’s known and worked with at several locales ... Feature Story